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Tea for two

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

No stay at the Empress is complete without sitting down to Afternoon Tea.

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

Now, I love a good cuppa no matter where I am, but leaning back in a squashy chair and gazing upward at something like this makes every sip a little more special.

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

The Empress has been pouring tea every afternoon since it opened in 1908—it was the first venue in Victoria to offer it to the public.

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

For over a century it’s been one of the city’s biggest tourist draws, but it was easy to forget all about the crowds. Somehow it felt like a quiet, private meal at the home of a dowager aunt. Not normally my, uh, cup of tea, but I loved how unexpectedly cozy it was.

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

The scones made me miss the Tailor. He would have loved them—and then tried to figure out the recipe.

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

The savory course was to die for. It was a curious, perfect mix of England (curried chicken, cucumber finger sandwiches) and the Pacific Northwest (best smoked salmon ever). Two months later, I can’t even look at this photo without the memories flooding my taste buds and making me salivate.

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

The Inner Harbour just outside the window, a good friend across the table, and a seemingly endless array of flavors to hand: the perfect recipe for a relaxing Sunday afternoon.

Tea at the Empress photo by Chandler O'Leary

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Oh, Canada!

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

Yeah, I know. It’s a week before Christmas, and Hanukkah starts tomorrow. Our tree is up, and we even had our mega-huge holiday party last night (62 people—a new record!). But somehow, my mind is occupied with red-gold maples, not flocked evergreens. Maybe it’s the fact that everyone’s lawns are at their greenest at this time of year. Or maybe it’s the knowledge that once these Festivals of Light are over, there’s still a whole lot of actual winter darkness and that Northwestern silver-grey pall to overcome before the sun returns. Whatever it is, I’m not quite ready to let go of autumn yet. So in between the holiday records and the hall-decking, I find myself poring over my fall photos.

Vancouver Island photo by Chandler O'Leary

Autumn is always my favorite time of year, and this was a particularly good one. We had more sunny days than we have any right to expect in the Northwest, but that’s not the half of it. This was my thirtieth fall, so for me, there just seemed to be a hint of celebration in the air.

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

And so to start our next decade off with a bang, my friend Nicole (who also turned thirty this fall) and I spent three glorious days in Victoria, British Columbia.

Olympic Peninsula photo by Chandler O'Leary

In order to catch the morning ferry to Vancouver Island, we had to leave T-Town at oh-dark-thirty to reach Port Angeles at sunrise.

Olympic Peninsula photo by Chandler O'Leary

With view like this as a reward, though, it was hard to complain about the pre-dawn slog.

Black Ball ferry photo by Chandler O'Leary

The tall cups of hot, strong coffee—and knitting!—keeping our hands warm didn’t hurt, either. After a ninety-minute crossing over the Strait—

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

—and a tight squeeze through the snug Inner Harbour—there we were.

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

We checked into our hotel,

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

and then set out to see the sights—those just around the corner,

Vancouver Island photo by Chandler O'Leary

and a few slightly farther afield.

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

We couldn’t have asked for better weather for exploring the city,

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

or better light for showing off its photogenic side.

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

And whenever our overstimulated brains needed a break from all the grandeur, we could turn our attention to sights both quaint—

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

—and cute (as a button).

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

My favorite thing about Victoria, though, was discovering a visual melting pot of Old World and New World,

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

and of East and West.

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

When I think of the American West, what usually stands out in my mind are dramatic natural vistas with little or no human presence. So standing on the other side of the border, and seeing an English-style Parliament complex just a stone’s throw from rugged mountains and First-Nations totems was a little jarring at first glance. But then I realized that Victoria isn’t necessarily a city of contrasts, but something else altogether: a blend of all the best parts of the cultures and environments that have come together here. It was both comfortably routine and utterly foreign at the same time.

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary

And I remembered that all my experiences in Canada have been like that: an unexpected twist on something very familiar. Always at hand is the feeling of great adventure in a strange land—and the sense that home is just around the corner.

Victoria, BC photo by Chandler O'Leary