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The canning season

Canning season photo by Chandler O'Leary

It’s the time of year where our kitchen is a lot hotter—and the days much longer—than anything summer might throw at us naturally.

Canning season photo by Chandler O'Leary

The Tailor and I have been up late with the dilly beans,

Blueberry Park photo by Chandler O'Leary

Blueberry Park photo by Chandler O'Leary

out at dawn at the Blueberry Park,

Wenatchee orchard photo by Chandler O'Leary

and across the mountains to get peaches right off the tree.

Canning season photo by Chandler O'Leary

And then everything has got to get washed and sliced—

Canning season photo by Chandler O'Leary

—and packed into jars—as quickly as possible. It’s the best way we know how to make the fleeting summer last.

Canning season photo by Chandler O'Leary

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Over the mountains

Mt. Rainier photo by Chandler O'Leary

Whenever the Tailor and I do our annual peach haul from the other side of the Cascades, we like to take the back road. That way, we get to take in the mountain air,

Washington orchards photo by Chandler O'Leary

visit every orchard along the way,

Washington fruit photo by Chandler O'Leary

Have our pick of the best farmstands,

Yakima Canyon photo by Chandler O'Leary

and take the time to find out what’s beyond the next bend in the road.

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Just peachy

Washington orchards photo by Chandler O'Leary

Earlier this month, my best friend Elizabeth flew in for a visit. Each time she’s come to town I’ve taken her to see a different part of the state—and since we’re in the middle of fruit season, this time we headed for the Yakima Valley.

Washington orchards photo by Chandler O'Leary

At this time of year, the roadsides are piled high with apple crates,

Washington orchards photo by Chandler O'Leary

ready for the harvest that will begin in a few weeks.

Washington orchards photo by Chandler O'Leary

The pears seem to be a little closer—

Washington orchards photo by Chandler O'Leary

they’re ripening quite nicely.

Washington peaches photo by Chandler O'Leary

Right now, though, it’s peach season. The Tailor sent us on an errand for as much preserve-ready fruit as we could get our hands on—so I took him literally and brought home fifty pounds of Regina peaches,

Washington apricots photo by Chandler O'Leary

another fifty of Rival apricots,

Washington peaches photo by Chandler O'Leary

and a handful of beautiful donuts for a snack.

Peach pie photo by Chandler O'Leary

Once he got over his shock at the trunk full of fruit, and set aside a few peaches for the pie I had been begging for, the Tailor canned up an impressive array of preserves. From top left forward: peach jam; ginger-peach chutney (a collaboration with Jessica); sliced peaches in medium syrup; apricot jam; apricot sauce.

My favorite, and the one I can’t wait to taste with a little kugel:

Apricot Jam
(yield: about 10 half-pint jars)

– 2 quarts (8 cups) crushed, peeled apricots
– 6 cups sugar

Now, I’m not going to go into great detail about the whys and wherefores of home canning now, but if canning’s your thing, this will be old hat for you anyway. If not, and you’d like more specific instructions, I’d suggest our favorite resource: Putting Food By.

Anyway. Wash your jars in hot water (most books will tell you to sterilize them, but that’s what the hot water bath at the end is for). Keep the jars hot in a low oven (if you pour hot jam into cold jars, the glass can shatter), and the lids sterile in boiling water until ready to use.

Combine the apricots and sugar in a large stock pot. Slowly bring to a boil, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves. Cook at a rapid boil until thick (when the mixture reaches about 220° F, depending on your preference), about an hour, stirring frequently to prevent sticking or scorching.

When the mixture jells, pour it into the hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch headspace in each. Wipe the jar rims with a clean cloth (any jam left on the rim will prevent the jar from sealing), attach lids, and tighten ring bands. Process in a boiling water bath for 5 minutes (longer if you live at high altitude).

Let cool for 12 hours before removing the ring bands. Store in a dark, dry, cool place.

(Or, if you just can’t wait, pop open a jar and have some toast ready.)

Peach preserves photo by Chandler O'Leary